古劳最佳平替之WMT

古劳最佳平替之WMT

无意间在海鲜市场刷到了一个叫WMT的牌子,看到“打板乐”的潮牌madness与WMT联名推出了针对Rolex ref.6538、Rolex ref.6200的“致敬款”,本想买来玩玩仔细一看是石英机型就顿感无趣...

但是对WMT这个品牌比较感兴趣,打开官网看到介绍:

WMT腕表品牌专门制作灵感源自古董军用、潜水等时计的复古腕表。我们以不同年代、经历不同岁月的古董时计作参考,逐个部件以人手工序独立打造的仿古效果,模仿真实经氧化、生锈、长期曝晒等损耗而造成的痕迹,以现代技术工艺创作还原古董时计灵魂。

总结一下,就是“利用现代技术及材质和人工做旧手法来还原复古腕表的味道”

这一点其实有很大的触动到我,因为与普通的Rolex的不同,古董Rolex涉及的知识面、玩法相对较深,数十万起步,百万价格不等的价格入门门槛相当高,正因如此,业内开始出现一些品牌是以古董手表为蓝本,再以人工做旧的工艺去打造还原这些年代久远的手表,让更多的人可以体验到古董手表的乐趣,我本人喜欢的也是古董劳力士的设计,但是质感真的想对比较拉胯,所以买的古董表几乎就是放在摇表器里吃灰,从未上手去带过,一是因为质感,二是因为比较难修,因为配件已经很难找了,就算找到的配件也是全新的,装在古董表上会特别违和。

官网的腕表一共有三类,分别是经典系列,定制及军事系列,其中军事系列和经典系列基本上就是已经做好的致敬劳力士的款,从最开始的复古水鬼系列到复古海使,甚至到近期有刷到有在做复古迪通拿和日志系列。

其中比较有趣的款式:

  • 劳力士Tiffany蓝:
Cabochon – Glossy Turquoise Dial/Shipping Date – Early of May 2022
Movement Automatic ( Miyota ) 8215 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 36.0mm Case Length 43.7mm Case Thickness 13.0mm Case Finishing Polish / Brush finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Metal Bracelet Strap Size…
  • 劳力士复古保罗纽曼迪通拿:
Montana – Racer / Black Dial / Pre Order / Shipping Date – Mid of April 2022
Movement Automatic ( Seiko ) NE88 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 37.5mm Case Length 44.0mm Case Thickness 14.23mm Case Finishing Polish / Brush finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Metal Bracelet Strap Size…

劳力士复古间金蓝:

Sanford – 2 Tone / Blue bezel Aged Edition
Movement Automatic ( Miyota ) 8215 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 39.5mm Case Length 47.0mm Case Thickness 14.89mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet…
  • 劳力士复古海使双红:
Royal Marine – Black dial / Aged Edition
Movement Automatic ( Miyota ) 8215 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 39.5mm Case Length 47.0mm Case Thickness 14.8mm Case Finishing Polish / Brush finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Metal Bracelet Strap Size…
  • 劳力士复古水鬼commex:
Royal Marine – Subdiver MKII Limited
The Royal Marine SUBDIVER MKIIThe Royal Marine SUBDIVER MKII features a black-on-white box label right above 6 O’clock index. Vintage processed bezel, dial and hands, with 3-link bracelet and a whole new WMT flip lock clasp is designed for this limited edition.Again we are paying homage to a diver…
  • 劳力士1675、泛美航空定制款、中东款:
Panton – Brown Dial / Brass Bezel Aged Edition
Movement Automatic ( Miyota ) 8215 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 38.0mm Case Length 46.0mm Case Thickness 14.5mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet…
Panton – White Dial / Brass Bezel Aged Edition
Movement Automatic ( Seiko) NH35 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 38.0mm Case Length 46.0mm Case Thickness 14.5mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet M…
Panton – UAE Tropical Dial / Metal Band + Italian Leather Strap Set / Aged Edition
Movement Automatic ( Seiko ) NH35 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 38.0mm Case Length 46.0mm Case Thickness 14.5mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet…
Sanford – UAE Falcon Edition
Movement Automatic ( Seiko ) NH35 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 39.5mm Case Length 47.0mm Case Thickness 14.89mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet…

同时还有很多中东款,包含鹰面,双刀,中东日历、盘面、外圈等

  • 劳力士中东复古水鬼:
Royal Marine – Oman / Aged Edition / Limited 100 PC
Movement Automatic ( Seiko ) NH35 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 39.5mm Case Length 47.0mm Case Thickness 14.8mm Case Finishing Polish / Brush finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Metal Bracelet Strap Size 2…

劳力士中东复古探险家:

Ember – Oman Edition / Aged / Early Bird / 14th – 31st Dec 2021
Movement Automatic ( Seiko ) NH35 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 38.5mm Case Length 47.0mm Case Thickness 14.5mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet…
  • 劳力士GMT鹰面:
Sanford – UAE Falcon / 2 Tone / Aged Edition / Limited 50 PC
Movement Automatic ( Miyota ) 8215 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 39.5mm Case Length 47.0mm Case Thickness 14.89mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet…
Sanford – UAE Falcon / Navy / Aged Edition / Pre-order / Delivery date – 25th January 2022
Movement Automatic ( Seiko ) NH35 Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Case diameter 39.5mm Case Length 47.0mm Case Thickness 14.89mm Case Finishing Brush & Shiny finishing Case back Stainless steel, screw down Strap Material Stainless steel bracelet…

至于定制比较好理解,方法如球鞋定制一样,可以为你的表壳、指针、表圈、面盘替换颜色、材质等等,而最好玩的当数是“做旧”选项,可以为手表增加岁月的痕迹,而且价格非常亲民,两三千的价格就可以体验到,性价比很高。

剩下的可以自己去看看,这些其实能看到WMT团队对古董劳的了解及研究还是非常深入的,很多耳熟能详的款式基本上都能看到,是非常好的平替及解毒款。

我本人由于特别喜欢上文提到的ref1665海使双红,价格580美刀(官网下单日常被税800RMB,也可以找转运)39mm的表径也特别适合我,官网售价昨天刚刚收到

说说感受:

  • 包装整体比较环保,多送一对生耳用于更换nato或者皮质表带,带螺丝刀及出生纸
  • 看官网介绍采用的是316L钢,机芯采用Automatic ( Miyota ) 8215机芯
  • 质感除了表扣部分其他和现代款并无区别,表扣和古劳的表扣设计的一致且质感一致,也就是比较拉胯
  • 把头拧出来调时间的时候有点晃动,但并无实际影响
  • 走时好像每天慢15ms左右
  • 这款ref1665做旧比较轻,指针、盘面刻度及夜明珠能明显看出做旧痕迹

点评一下,整体还是有超出预期的,非常对得起价格,非常适合喜欢古劳但是又不想踩坑的玩家平替及解毒,个人觉得有待提升的地方就是机芯的选择及表扣的整体质感,还有就是有1675等复古GMT款式但是机芯还是采用的大三针没有双时区的功能,这个是我觉得会减分的地方,当然可能以后会升级也说不定。

最后来一张与ref1665的合影,安能辨我是雌雄